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Dressing the Hogwarts Student Body
For costume desinger Jany Temime, each Harry Potter film presents a new challenge that must be met

French-born Jany Temime has been entrusted with the task of making sure that the costumes in each of the Harry Potter films have brought with them a distinction that separates them from the films that have preceded them. It’s a challenge that she has risen to repeatedly, as will be evidenced this November when Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince is released. Jany has also been signed to handle the costumes for teh two-part finale, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. Some of her numerous non-Harry credits include 2001’s Invincible, 2004’s Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason, 2006’s Children of Men and the forthcoming The Fifth Beatle.
In the following Q&A, Jany dsicusses some of her efforts on the Harry Potter films, offering an inside look at the thought processes that go into their making.

Movie Magic: What was challenging costume-wise for the new film?
Jany Temime:It was challenging because the children are no longer children anymore. They are teenagers, almost adults, to be honest. They have reached an age where first they need to have a much more definite style than they perhaps needed to have in the past. I’m not saying tehre is lots of intrigue between them, but they have to look good and they have to look attractive. It’s no longer that you could put anything on them and they look fine. Nobody wants to be funny or ridiculous, they all want to look good. On this film, it has been like dressing 20 adults, but still keeping a style, because they do have a style that the audience is expecting them to have.

Movie Magic: Anything new in particular in terms of costumes?
Jany: There have been a whole new series of new costumes, which were a lot of work as usual. In this movie, Quidditch is brought back and we introdue a new design to be worn by the seeker and the goalkeeper, Harry and Ron. Quidditch is a very dangerous game. WE wanted to have something a little bit stronger in terms of the look. Padding has been introduced because of the age of the players and the danger, because they go a lot further when they are seventeen or sixteen years old. They dare much more, so in the game, being more dangerous, needs more protections.
There is padding that will protect the shoulder and back. The cape is something that you wear to gly. It has a hood, because we are wizards. The additions have an inspiration from American Football, but it’s not from American football completely because the shoulder had to be able to move when they were flying. We thought of maybe introducing a helmet, but we thought that might be too much during the match. However, when they are training, they will wear it. We also have the new Quidditch outfit for Slytherin. It is in silver, and it has some beautiful black and silver on green. It’s a lot more silky. They look much bigger and very cool. All of it, I think, looks fantastic.

Movie Magic: These films have changed and evolved as they’ve gone on. Would you say that challenge extends to the costumes as well?
Jany: Constantly, because nothing is more difficult than sequals, because you have to keep a certain style, yet you have to innovate. You have to innovate in order to keep the public alert and entertained and at the same time you need to give them what they expect.

Movie Magic: Working with differnet directors on the various films, does each bring their own desire and look to that particular film?
Jany:That was something that was very exciting about the films, but this time we have the same director in David Yates, but we love him. He’s wonderful, very creative and really a dream to work for, so that was fine. We had an excellent new director of photography, which was also amazingly artistic and very challenging.

Movie Magic: Looking back at some of the earlier films, what are your feelings about the costumes? For instance, Alfonso Cuaron’s Prisoner of Azkaban was the first one to shake things up in terms o fthe look of the series, right down to the costumes themselves.
Jany: For that film, we darkened the colors and included a hood with the house colors inside, so you immediately knew which hose each student belongs to. To encourage individuality, we gave everyone a choice of singlets, jumpers, cardigans and other variations on the uniform. And with the Quidditch uniforms, the idea was to make them more modern, resembing gear from a sport like rugby or football. So we introduced stripes and numbers. And because the Quidditch sequence takes place in the rain, we had to use a very modern waterproof fabric, and that in itself gave the uniforms a more contemporary look.

Movie Magic: Wasn’t there allso a difference in the way Michael Gambon’s Dumbledore compared to Richard Harris’?
Jany: Alfonso wanted Dumbledore to look like an old hippie, but still very chic and with a lot of class. His previous costumes had been quite heavy and majestic, but we took some silk and tie dyed it so when Dumbledore is walking around, his robes float behind him. It’s a much lighter look, which also gives the character more energy. And for some people like Peter Pettigrew, we went with a 1970s-era suit and wove silver hairs and a threadded tail into it. His look is frozen in time, and has become very thread-bare and worn.

Movie Magic: When looking at Goblet of Fire, it’s obvious that there were a number of interesting opportunities for costume design.
Jany: When we were creating the look for Mad-Eye Moody, we were inspired by spagetti westerns in creating his black coat. Moody is a warrior. The man has no house, no home. He litterally lives in his coat. We had a team of people who spent a week aging and distressing the coat to give it a lifetime’s worth of wear. And for the look of Rita Skeeter’s wardrobe, I was inspired by the 1980s – strong colors, very angular and specific to the story she’s investigating. For instance when the Triwizard contestants face their challenge with the dragons, she’s dressed in a snakeskin kind of material with scales. When she attends the diving challenge, it’s no accident that her outfit is a poisonous, sickening green.

Movie Magic: Obviously, you also created distinct looks for the different schools that were in the competition
Jany: Yes, exactly. The Beauxbaton girls are sophisticated and self-aware, so I draped them in the most sensual and feminine fabric I could find, a delicate silk in the blue color of the French flag. The fabric clings to their form, in complete contrast to the restrictive uniforms the Hogwarts girls wear. The Durmstrang boys radiate a masculinity the girls ahev never seen before with their rough,, almost primitive thick wool clothing, heavey boots and wool coats.

Movie Magic: Goblet of Fire also featured the Yule Ball, which required numerous costumes as well.
Jany:We prepared over 300 costumes for the Yule Ball alone. First, we designed the boys’ evening attire. Each has a white or black tie and a fancy waistcoat. Harry wears a very classic black wasitcoat. The Slyhterins have white ties, because they regard themselves as Posh. Designing the girls’ dresses took several months, during which 100 dressmakers and wardobe artists handmade the gowns. The girls were so excited about what they were going to wear. It was as if they were going to a real ball! Hermione’s dress had to be really special. I wanted it to be a fairy tail dress, something that would make all the children gasp when she entered the room.

Movie Magic:And in the Order of the Phoenix, a character like Umbridge brought with herself so much… pink.
Jany: The colour of her costumes was predetermined by the book: pink, pinker, pinkest. Everytime we see her, she is in a different shade of pink. As she gains power, the colour gets stronger and more atrocious until she winds up in the deepest shade of cerise. Also, in that film working with Evanna Lynch [Luna Lovegood] was very interesting. She was very specific about certain details. I made earring for her that were red radishes, and she insisted that they had to be orange. That’s how well she knew the character. We wanted to make sure that Luna’s costume reflected a girl with very individual tastes and her own special interests, but not so completely different that she would not fit in with others.

Movie Magic: Have you been signed to the two-part adaption of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows?
Jany:Yes, and it’s a challenge too, because its the end. You have to do the finale in the best way you can. It’s very challenging for me. I’m quite afraid, actually, because I always felt that doing a number five or a number 6, you could always do better next time. Now this is the last one, so I’ve got to do my best. This is the end. It’s always difficult to style a fnale, because it is the last one that people will aways remember.

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